A common misconception regarding black hair is that it doesn’t grow. In reality black hair is extremely fragile and very dry, making it more prone to breakage than any other race. It requires extra care to retain length, but many black women lack the knowledge or just prefer styling their hair to actually caring for it.
Before I delve into the causes of breakage, it is important to address what breakage is. Unlike shedding, breakage doesn’t occur at the root but within the hair strand. It is easy to distinguish shed hair from broken hair because shed hair will have a white bulb attached to it. Excessive breakage indicates weak and damaged hair. Here are the main reasons for hair breakage:
Dry Hair
Lack of moisture means dry brittle hair. Daily moisturizing and sealing with an oil will add elasticity to your hair. Your ends are the oldest and weakest part of your hair, so pay close attention to them. If your ends are breaking off at the same rate that your hair is growing, you will see no changes in length.
Be sure to wash with a moisturizing shampoo and deep condition after every wash.
You can also try the baggy method:
- Pull your hair back in a ponytail
- Moisturize and seal the ends
- Wrap the ponytail up in a shower cap and secure it overnight
Too Much Moisture
Yes indeed, there is such a thing. Overly moisturized hair feels mushy and extremely stretchy. To counteract this, you can wash with a clarifying shampoo and do a protein treatment.
Chemicals
If your hair is relaxed or dyed, it will naturally be weaker than virgin hair. This doesn’t mean it won’t grow, but it will break more if it’s not properly cared for. Chemicals strip the hair of protein so make sure you incorporate protein treatments into your hair regimen.
Overlapping Relaxers
Relax your new growth only. Do not spread your relaxer all the way down to the ends! It will weaken and thin out your previously processed hair even more.
Too Much Protein
Some people have protein sensitive hair. Too much protein will leave your hair feeling stiff, brittle and dry. Always make sure to deep condition and moisturize after protein treatments.
Heat Tools
Excessive heat will damage your hair and cause split ends. Opt for styles that don’t require heat and if you must use heat, be sure to use a heat protectant first.
Rough Handling
- Never comb your hair from root to tip. Always start from the ends and work your way up
- Using a wide-tooth comb and a detangler/conditioner, detangle your hair in sections
- Do not comb through tangles. When you spot a tangle, take it apart with your fingers
- When you wash your hair, do it in sections. Do not rub it all over your head like the girls in the commercials
Hairstyles
If it hurts to laugh, then your hairstyle is way too tight. This added stress to the hair will cause it to break. Make sure you let your stylist know when it hurts!
Fabric Friction
Silk and satin are your friends. If your hair is rubbing against anything else, you’re likely to experience split ends and breakage. Here are some tips to reduce friction with damaging fabrics:
- Wrap your hair up at night with a silk or satin scarf
- Use a satin pillowcase if you don’t want to wrap it up
- Line your hats with silk or satin when you can
- Wear protective styles to keep your ends from rubbing against your clothing
Over-manipulation
Maybe you’re just doing too much, ever thought about that? Let your hair rest. Low manipulation styles include:
- Roller sets
- Bantu knots
- Twist/braid outs
- Pin curls
- Buns
Medical Conditions
In this situation, you would want to consult a licensed medical professional.
Please remember that everyone’s hair grows differently. If your hair is not growing as fast as the next girl, don’t fret! To know precisely how long your hair grows per month you can:
- Measure your new growth (relaxed)
- Braid your hair in singles and measure the new growth (naturals)
- Straighten a part of your hair and compare it to the length from the previous month (naturals)
Also note that different sections of the hair grow at different rates. For instance, the front of my hair grows much slower than the back.
Hope this helps. Happy hair growing!
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