I like to think of makeup as a great smoke and mirrors trick. The key to a perfectly executed makeup application is in the ability to create the illusion of diminished flaws. A great way to do this is by contouring the parts of the face that you want to appear slimmer and highlight the places you want to accentuate. Remember this my dear: light colors (highlight) bring forward and dark colors (contour) recede.
Contour: Under the cheekbones–This is especially good for people with round faces.
Highlight: Above cheekbones–This is an essential companion to the cheekbone contour. Choose a shade that is no more than two shades lighter than your complexion.
Contour: Jaw line- A pronounced jaw on a woman can sometimes look less than desirable. Shading with a darker color will minimize strong features like a jagged jaw line.
Contour: Sides of the nose–To make your nose appear more narrow, contour the sides then add a highlight to the bridge of the nose for a raised effect
Highlight: Bridge of nose–Raises the bridge to make it appear more higher which makes it look longer (narrow)
Contour: Eye crease–Most of you are probably already doing this and don’t realize you are contouring 🙂
Highlight: Under the eyes–I usually take a lighter concealer than I would use to cover dark circles to create a subtle highlight under the eye.
Also Highlight: Brow bone–Try this with a very light concealer, it will hide hair if you don’t have a fresh arch
Contour: Lips–I love to contour lips. For a Hot pout fill in the lip with lip liner leaving only the middle of the mouth without color; then add a lighter lipstick and a sheer gloss for extra shine
Highlight: Lips–you can highlight the cupid’s bow and outer corners of bottom lip to create a pout
Contour: Temples-this is a narrowing technique to make your head appear smaller
Sides of the forehead- If you consider your forehead to be a “5-head,” consider contouring it
Highlight: Center of the forehead- This is mainly to create contrast so that the side and top of the forehead recede
Contour: Neck- Great for hiding a double chin if you feel the need to.
Practice makes perfect. Creating symmetry can be tricky at first but the more you do it, the easier it will become.
Contouring and highlighting can be done with powders, creams or liquid foundation. I like to use cream sticks to make my “warrior marks.” In my opinion, using cream gives me better control of the placement.
BE SURE TO BLEND, BLEND, BLEND!!!!!
Mikki Bey is a Celebrity Makeup Artist based in Los Angeles. Her work has been published in Ebony, Vibe, Jet, Upscale, OK! and Life and Style magazines. Check out her website http://www.mikkibey.com. Tweet your beauty questions/comments to her @mikkibey.
